Model: Anna Speckhart / Photo: Ben Pogue for Oyster
I posted the above selfie on Instagram yesterday (an especially good makeup and hair day), and I got inspired to post a how-to. It was so easy, actually. There are some things that I did differently than the vampy norm. This look — besides the dark lip colour — is turned waaaay down in the goth department, down to my aesthetic of wearable casual makeup.
Sheer, Radiant Skin Base
For the base, I did a 50/50 mix of Laura Mercier Radiance Primer ($40) and NARS St. Moritz Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer ($49) applied with Real Techniques Stippling Brush. Concentrate around the nose and chin area where there’s usually redness and uneven skin tone, then blend out to the cheeks and forehead. If I need extra help, I’ll go in with Laura Mercier SC-5 Secret Camouflage ($38) on blemishes and extra redness. Then I set everything with — surprise surprise — Hourglass Dim Light Ambient Lighting Powder ($45).
What Can Brown (Blush) Do For You?
I’m obsessed with brown blush, guys. Don’t judge, hear me out. I’ve been wearing brown blush — MAKE UP FOR EVER 24 Matte Fawn Sculpting Blush — all winter long because: a) I’m feeling kinda pale, and b) I don’t need to add any extra pink to my wind blown skin. I wear it on the back of my cheekbones, halfway between where you would normally wear blush and where you put a contour shade in.
I also run this all over my eyelid as a neutral eyeshadow just to give it a bit of dimension. Pretty, no?
Pardon the iPhone pic, but I mean, it was a really good eyebrow day.
Brows: Up Up and Away!
I’ve gone on and on about brows and I’ve been doing something a little bit different. Worn here is my old standby, MAKE UP FOR EVER #40 Aqua Brow ($24). Then, I take a spoolie and spray it with strong hold hairspray like L’Oreal Elnett. This breaks up the brows to make them look more naturally full than just drawn on.
Black Waterline Eyeliner, 2.0
Lining your waterlines is a great way to define your eyes and make your lashes thicker, but applying all the way around your eyes makes them look smaller. If you love your waterline eyeliner and can’t part with it, but want a fresh way to wear it, try this trick: line your top waterline entirely, then on the lower waterline, only line the centre third, right below your irises. This frames the eyes without overwhelming with so much black, without sacrificing any definition. I use a long wearing formula that really stays on the waterline: Urban Decay Perversion 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil ($23).
Bonus: this may also eliminate the problem of melted eyeliner at the outer corners of your eyes.
Give yourself 3-5 minutes for the lips if you are going vampy with your lip colour. I used MAKE UP FOR EVVER 11 Dark Raspberry Aqua Rouge ($29). I apply this with a lip brush not only for precision, but also because the product can be thick and patchy on the lips.
This same look also suits a nude lip for a cool, minimalist ’90s vibe, if you’re not comfortable with such a deep shade. I’d wear a warm creamy nude, something like Maybelline Stormy Sahara Lipstick (worn here).